Crochet hook: 4.5 mm

Difficulty Level: Level 1 – Easy, for beginners

US crochet terms:

SlSt – slip stitch
CH/s – chain/s
CSSC - centre stitch single crochet
SK - skip
T - turn
ST/s - stitch(es)
REP - repeat
YO – yarn over
BLO - back loop only

-cssc2tog = centre stitch single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)
-cssc3tog = centre stitch single crochet 3 stitches together (decrease)

Special Stitches:

-centre stitch single crochet (cssc): The Waistcoat stitch is also known as center post stitch. It’s as easy as a single crochet. Instead of using the top two loops of the stitch, insert hook lower into the body of each stitch, i.e. the center of the two vertical threads that make the “V” of the stitch, yarn over, pull back through the “V”, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook. 

The trick with this stitch is to insert your hook in the middle of the post, just under the inverted “v.”
Then, complete the stitch just as you would a sc: pull up the loop, yarn over, pull through both loops on the hook. To start this stitch, chain any number and start with one row of regular sc.

Some tips: when using cssc use a hook size bigger than usual, keep your stitches very loose, it helps when you’re trying to insert the hook. Use this stitch in the round to get a very consistent look.

Centre stitch single crochet 2 stitches together (ssc2tog): this is a decrease stitch. It takes 2 stitches and turns them into 1 stitch. Insert hook into center of the “V” of the stitch, yarn over, pull back through the “V”, insert hook into center of the “V” of the NEXT stitch also, yarn over, pull back through, yarn over and pull through 3 loops on hook.

Centre stitch single crochet 3 stitches together (cssc3tog): work as cssc2tog except over 3 stitches in a row instead of only 2.

BACK LOOP: The BACK loop can be found just behind the front loop. Working in this back loop, creates a nice ribbing look on the both sides of the pattern. 

This pattern also requires familiarity with stitches used and using invisible join when you work in spiral rounds. 

CROCHET NORDIC WOOL SOCKS - PATTERN NOTES

1) Before you start take a measurement of length of your leg from big toe to heel and a leg circumference (please see the final measurement of the slipper booties below).

2) This pattern is for Kids size, but you can easily adapt to a smaller size or bigger size. 

There are 3 parts:

1) from the big toe to the leg
2) the heel
3) the body of the leg 
4) the ribbing border

3) Except for the ribbing ending, the entire sock is crocheted in the round so there is no joining after every row.

4) We will first make the toe with increasing rounds. There is an opening for the heel, which will be finished as a separate second part. Then complete leg part, with nordic pattern. Finally we add a nice ribbing ending on the top of sock.

The finished size of the sock is approx. wide x  long.

5) A ch1 at beg of the round DOESN'T count as a stitch throughout. 

6) The Sock measures: 22 cm / 8.5 inch (length), 21 cm / 8.2 inch (width), 13 cm / 5 inch (body of sock), 4 cm / 1.5 inch riibbing ending lenght

*Measurements are taken from the garment lying flat, before the yarn has stretched out/dropped.

7) The Charts in pdf to download

Artisan Socks_Nordic pattern_Leg chart.pdf

Artisan Socks_Nordic pattern_foot chart.pdf

CROCHET NORDIC WOOL SOCKS 

THE WRITTEN PATTERN

PART 1

work in spiral rounds
color A
ch1 at the beginning of round don't count as a stitch.

PART 1 – from the toe to the leg

make a magic circle.

R1: ch1, 7sc in mc (7sc)

R2: 2cssc into each st around (14)

R3: 1cssc into each st around (14)

R4: *2cssc into next st, 1cssc into next st*, * repeat from * to * till end of round (21)

R5: 1cssc into each st around (21)

R6: *2cssc into next st, ssc into next 2 st*, repeat from * to * till end of round (28)

R7: 1cssc into each st around (28)

R8: *2cssc into next st, cssc into next 3 st*, repeat from * to * till end of round (35)

R9: 1cssc into each st around (35)

Then work 1cssc into each st around (35 here and throughout the body of the sock)

Now begin working the charts (it is worked from right to left, bottom to top)

Note: for color changes, you want to complete the final yarn over of the previous stitch with the new color for the next stitch.

Foot chart:

Measurement: 15 cm / 5.8 inch length // 21 cm / 8.2 inch width

PART 2: HEEL

Heel: For the heel, you will chain 16 and then count and skip 16 stitches from the previous row.

The ssc2tog and ssc3tog stitches do a really nice job of pulling the corners together nice and tight and not creating a bulky misshapen heel.

Using Color A and 4.5 mm hook.

I recommend setting the sock so that the transitions between the rows, i.e. the beginning of the row, is in the middle of the lower part. That way transitions and bounces are well hidden.

We have 36 st, divide by 2 = 18 st.

It is easy to count 9 st to the end of the row and start crocheting the heel there.

Continue working your cssc stitches to the end of row 33, R33.

Start of R34, you will make 1cssc st in next 28 st, then chan 16 chains, skip 16 st, 1cssc in next st. Turn

R1: ch1, 1sc in next 15 chains, cssc2tog. You just finished at the place where you start to work on the heel, work 1cssc in next 15 st, then work in spiral rounds with cssc only.

R2: cssc3tog over the next 3 sts in the corner, then 1cssc in each st, till the corner st, cssc3tog, then 1cssc in each st, till the next corner st.

R3 - R7: we repeat row R2, in each row we decrease the number of st by 4 st

Finish with 10 st around in the last round.

Cut a longer tail and pull yarn through last loop.

Flatten the small opening you have left so the rows are on top of one another. Use a yarn needle and the sew stitches together, stitch to stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.

PART 3 – the body of the sock

Now move on to the leg charts.

Lay the sock out in front of you. Place sock with right side up, right side facing you.

With yarn color B and a crochet hook 4.5 mm.

You will now make a border around the PART 2, making sure the right side up, work in a foundation chain on the opposite side.

Remember not to make your stitches too tight and not too loose. 

Start at the seam, re-join the new yarn.

R1: ch1, work 1cssc in each st around. I made 36 st in total.  

R2 - R29: 1cssc in each st around

Color B and color C

Now you will hide all loose tails in the wrong side of your work and turn it right side facing you. 

PART 4 – RIBBING ENDING

We will use back loop only slip stitches. This method makes a nice stretchy ending that will retain its shape.

Using Color A and 4.5mm hook:

Rejoin the new yarn in any st and chain 5 ch, turn

R1: ch1, work in 2nd ch from hook, make 1sc BLO in next 5 st, sl st to next st in top of sock (the st directly after the st you rejoin Color A to), sl st to next st in top of sock once again, turn

R2: ch1, skip 2 sl st and ch1, work 1 sc BLO into each st across, ch 1, turn (5sc)

R3: ch1, 1sc BLO in next 5 st, across down back to body of sock, sl st to next 2 st in top of sock once, turn

Repeat row R2 and R3 all the way around the top of the sock.

Place the beginning row and the ending row of the ribbing ending on top of one another and sl st together 5 st down to join.

Fasten off and weave in end.

SLIP STITCH BORDER: start a new yarn, work 1sl st in each st around the sock. Finish with an invisible join.  

Fasten off and weave in end.

You just created a beautiful CROCHET NORDIC WOOL SOCKS !

I hope you’ve enjoyed making this free CROCHET NORDIC WOOL SOCKS crochet pattern.

You can try also my COSY FURRY SLIPPER BOOTIES, LEG WARMERS or COSY MERINO SLIPPERS pattern:

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All of the patterns on that list of beautifully designed, and suitable for both beginners and experienced crocheters. They are different levels of difficulties and techniques that you might have never seen before. Just click on them and you can find the free pattern, each of the patterns comes with a video tutorial.

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