Hello My Crochet Friends!

It’s finally here! I’m so excited to share my newest free crochet pattern with you! The LITTLE BLUE Crochet Dress is the staple crochet dress everyone needs in their wardrobe! 

The LITTLE BLUE Crochet Dress is a gorgeous and fun outfit. 

If you are looking for a fun crochet LITTLE BLUE DRESS that is sexy and elegant, this one is for you. You will surely turn heads in this beautiful dress.

You can easily customise the length of this dress. Make it a midi or a maxi. The pattern is easy and can be completed by a beginner. There are no fancy stitches. The pattern is for an extra small/small. However, there are directions on increasing and decreasing the size.

The crochet LITTLE BLUE DRESS is fit crochet dress with elegant neckline. The sleek and stylish silhouette creates an extremely versatile piece, while the sleevesless top and mini skirt make it perfect for summer!

The entire dress is only one piece as its crocheted in the round from the neck down and there isn’t any extra seaming to join the dress together. Since this is a neck down crochet pattern, it’s very easy to alter so that this dress can fit your body.

There are also written instructions for a waist tie belt – I always love a bit of waist definition, but it’s completely optional.

The pattern is available here below for free. It comes with a video guide as well.

VIDEO TUTORIAL
You can find the step-by-step video tutorials below which will help you along if you prefer to watch video instruction rather than using a written pattern.

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This pattern is made for beginners - only a basic skill level is required to make it. If you don't understand any of my instructions, don't worry I am here for you - enter the comments at the end of this post.

A huge thanks to everyone who want to support my blog and download PDF paid pattern. Thank you very much, I really appreciate it and it helps me create more new video tutorials and patterns for you. Love you!

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Let's start or PIN this idea to your Pinterest boards for later.

If you’ve been looking for more Dresses, Skirts or Tunics or Crop Tops patterns for you or for your friends, you may will love these patterns. They are different levels of difficulties and techniques that you might have never seen before.

You might like these ones below. Just click on them and you can find the free pattern, each of the patterns comes with a video tutorial.

So let me now get started and tell you what you will need in order to crochet this amazing LITTLE BLUE DRESS Pattern.

This pattern is made for beginners - only a basic skill level is required to make it. If you don't understand any of my instructions, don't worry I am here for you - enter the comments at the end of this post.

If you’re looking for a cute little elegant dress for the spring and summer or something more suited to special occasions, this is a perfect choice.

LITTLE BLUE DRESS DIRECTIONS 
This lovely LITTLE BLUE DRESS is easy to make.
The pattern uses only basic crochet stitches - single and double crochets, trebles and chains.
This dress is crochet from the top down.
The direction shown are for women small size, 170 cm, but can be easily converted into bigger size or smaller size. It is a highly adaptable pattern that you can easily make in any size.
Work in rounds from the top to bottom.

Yarn: Alize Bella Ombre Batik, 250g / 900 m, 100% cotton, 1 skein

https://www.vlnika.cz/z15900-prize-bella-ombre-batik

For this pattern you will need 3.5 mm crochet hook.

Scissors and tapestry needle

Optionally: markers

Difficulty Level: Level 1 – Easy, for beginners

US crochet term:
SlSt – slip stitch
CH/s – chain/s
SC – simple crochet
DC - double crochet
TR - treble
FPDC - front post double crochet
FPTR - front post treble
DC2TOG = double crochet 2 stitches together
SK - skip
T - turn
ST/s - stitch(es)
REP - repeat

Special stitches: 
FPDC = front post double crochet / FPTR = front post treble

Front and back post crochet stitches are used to create wonderful texture in crochet. Instead of making your stitch through the loops at the top of the stitch, you make it around the stitch. Everything else stays the same. The most challenging things about crochet post stitches are knowing where and how to insert the hook. There are front post stitches and back post stitches.

For front post double crochet stitches (fpdc): yarn over, insert your hook from front to back then from back to front around post of stitch indicated, yarn over, pull through stitch, then finish your double crochet as normal, yarn over, pull through 2 lps, yarn over, pull through last 2 lps

For front post treble (fptr): yarn over twice, insert your hook from front to back then from back to front around post of stitch indicated, yarn over, pull through stitch, then finish your treble as normal, yarn over, pull through 2 lps, yarn over, pull through 2 lps, yarn over, pull through last 2 lps

Special stitches: 
DC2TOG = double crochet 2 stitches together

DC2TOG instructions: The TOG crochet abbreviation is simply shorthand for “together,” while the beginning determines the type of stitch. In this case, SC2 stands for “single crochet two.”, DC2 stands for "double crochet two"

How to decrease with dc2tog: yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull yarn through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull yarn through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook

Pattern Notes

1) Before you start take a neckline circumference and a bust circumference measurement.

I started with 150 chains for neckline.

2) This pattern is for women small size but you can changed to bigger size by making more or less chains of the foundation chain. Remember that when making your dress bigger you will need more yarn.

3) This dress is created from the neck and down so the body and skirt length/width are customizable.

I suggest trying on the dress at the end of the ‘TOP’, ‘BODY’ and ‘SKIRT’ instructions. You can add or remove rounds after each stage to customize fit.

4) The dress is perfectly symmetrical

5) The entire dress is only one piece as its crocheted in the round from the neck down and there isn’t any extra seaming to join the dress together. Since this is a neck down crochet pattern, it’s very easy to alter so that this dress can fit your body.

6) Instructions between two asterisks should be repeated for the remainder of the round

7) Measurement:

Neckline: 70 cm / 28 inch
Bust: 80 cm / 32 inch
Body length: 40 cm / 16 inch
Armhole depth: 13 + 9 cm / 6 + 4 inch
Waist: 70 cm / 28 inch
Skirt length: 23 cm / 11.5 inch
Bottom border: 108 cm / 46 inch
Dress length: 63 cm / 27.5 inch

*Measurements are taken from the garment lying flat, before the yarn has stretched out/dropped.

I suggest trying on the top. The corners markers should meet underneath your arms on both sides. The top should fit over your bust.

HOW TO CROCHET LITTLE BLUE DRESS

THE WRITTEN PATTERN

Pick up the 3.5 mm crochet hook and start the foundation chain 150 chains. 

Make sure your ring of chains is not twisted!

Join the chain with a slip knot

R1: ch1 (1sc), ch7, skip 4st, 1sc in next st, *ch7, skip 4 st, 1sc in next st*, repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 1st ch from beg (30 loops)

R2: sl in next 2st, ch3 (1tr), 2tr in ch7sp, ch5, *3tr in next ch7sp, ch5*, repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (30 groups of 3tr and ch5 space between them)

R3: sl in next 5st, ch3 (1tr), 2tr in ch5sp, ch5, *3tr in next ch5sp, ch5*, repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (30 groups of 3tr and ch5 space between them)

R4: ch2 (1dc), 1dc in next 2st, 5dc in ch5sp, *1dc in next 3st, 5dc in next ch5sp*, repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 2nd ch from beg (30 groups of 8dc = 240 dc)

R5: ch3 (1tr), 1tr in next 2st, ch5, *1tr in next 3st, ch5*, repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (30 groups of 3tr and ch5 space between them)

R6 = R4: ch2 (1dc), 1dc in next 2st, 5dc in ch5sp, *1dc in next 3st, 5dc in next ch5sp*, repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 2nd ch from beg (30 groups of 8dc = 240 dc)

R7 = R5: ch3 (1tr), 1tr in next 2st, ch5, *1tr in next 3st, ch5*, repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (30 groups of 3tr and ch5 space between them)

*Note – You can remove Round 6 and Round 7 or add more rounds of Round 6 and Round 7 to make the top part shorter or longer.

Cut and fasten the yarn.
Don't turn your work, work on right side

NECLINE BORDER:
with same yarn and crochet hook
make a slip stitch and start crocheting on opposite side of your foundation chain where you start your work

ch1 (1sc), 5 sc in ch5sp, 1sc in next ch (chain where 1sc from R1 is placed as well), *5sc in ch5sp, 1sc in next ch*, repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 1st ch from beg (150 sc around)

Cut and fasten the yarn.
Don't turn your work, work on right side

TIME TO DIVIDE DRESS INTO 4 PARTS AND CREATE THE SLEEVES OPENINGS:
Directions: Divide your work into 4 parts – easy to count chain 5 spaces:
Skip 8 ch5sp and 3 trebles, place the marker there (front panel)
Skip 7 ch5sp, place the marker there (arm hole)
skip 8 ch5sp and 3 trebles, place the marker there (back panel)
skip last 7 ch5sp, place the marker there (arm hole)

FRONT PANEL

With same yarn and crochet hook
Make a slip stitch and start crocheting where you finish your R7 
Work on right side

R8: ch2, 1dc in next 3st, 5dc in ch5sp, *1dc in next 3st, 5dc in next ch5sp*, repeat from * to * 7 times, 1dc in next 3 st, turn (8 groups of 8dc + 3 = 67 dc)

R9: ch2, 2dc in first st, 1dc in each next st till last st left, 2dc in last st, turn (67 + 2 = 69 dc)

R10: ch2, 2dc in first st, 1dc in each next st till last st left, 2dc in last st, turn (69 + 2 = 71 dc)

R11: ch2, 2dc in first st, 1dc in each next st till last st left, 2dc in last st, turn (71 + 2 = 73 dc)

R12: ch2, 2dc in first st, 1dc in each next st till last st left, 2dc in last st, turn (73 + 2 = 75 dc)

*Note – You can remove Round 11 and 12 or add more rounds of Round 9 to make the top part shorter and narrow / or longer and wider.

R13: ch2, 1dc in each st till end of row, turn (75 dc)

Cut and fasten the yarn.
 

BACK PANEL

With same yarn and crochet hook
Make a slip stitch and start crocheting where you place your makers for Back Panel  
Work on right side

R8: ch2, 1dc in next 3st, 5dc in ch5sp, *1dc in next 3st, 5dc in next ch5sp*, repeat from * to * 7 times, 1dc in next 3 st, turn (8 groups of 8dc + 3 = 67 dc)

R9: ch2, 2dc in first st, 1dc in each next st till last st left, 2dc in last st, turn (67 + 2 = 69 dc)

R10: ch2, 2dc in first st, 1dc in each next st till last st left, 2dc in last st, turn (69 + 2 = 71 dc)

R11: ch2, 2dc in first st, 1dc in each next st till last st left, 2dc in last st, turn (71 + 2 = 73 dc)

R12: ch2, 2dc in first st, 1dc in each next st till last st left, 2dc in last st, turn (73 + 2 = 75 dc)

R13: ch2, 1dc in each st till end of row, turn (75 dc)

DON'T cut yarn and let's make a ARMHOLE BORDER.

ARMHOLE BORDER (LEFT SIDE):
with same yarn and crochet hook
single crochet border evenly, instructions: ch1 (1sc), 2sc aroud each last dc in the row and 5sc in each ch5sp, 1sc in each treble around

Cut and fasten the yarn.
Don't turn your work, work on right side

ARMHOLE BORDER (RIGHT SIDE):
with same yarn and crochet hook
make a slip stitch and start crocheting on R9 Front panel where you finish your work on Front panel single crochet border evenly, instructions: ch1 (1sc), 2 sc aroud each last dc in the row and 5sc in each ch5sp, 1sc in each treble around

DON'T cut yarn and let's ASSEMBLY FRONT and BACK PANEL and make a DRESS BODY.
Don't turn your work, work on right side

DRESS BODY
R14: time to assembly FRONT and BACK panels
slip st to in last st of BACK panel and first st of FRONT panel to join both panels ch2, 1dc in each st till end of row, 1dc in each st of R13 FRONT PANEL, sl st in 2nd ch from beg (150 dc)

R15: ch3 (1dc), 1dc in each st around, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (150 dc)

R16: ch3 (1dc), dc2tog, 1dc in each next 70 st till you reach the opposite side, dc2tog, dc2tog, 1dc in each next st left till 2 st left, dc2tog, sl st in 3rd ch from beg  (150 - 4 = 146 dc)

R17: ch3 (1dc), dc2tog, 1dc in each next 68 st till you reach the opposite side, dc2tog, dc2tog, 1dc in each next st left till 2 st left, dc2tog, sl st in 3rd ch from beg  (146 - 4 = 142 dc)

R18: ch3 (1dc), dc2tog, 1dc in each next 66 st till you reach the opposite side, dc2tog, dc2tog, 1dc in each next st left till 2 st left, dc2tog, sl st in 3rd ch from beg  (142 - 4 = 138 dc)

R17: ch3 (1dc), dc2tog, 1dc in each next 64 st till you reach the opposite side, dc2tog, dc2tog, 1dc in each next st left till 2 st left, dc2tog, sl st in 3rd ch from beg  (138 - 4 = 132 dc)

*Note – You can remove Round 16 and 17 or add more rounds of Round 17 to make the top part wider / or narrower.

R18: ch3 (1dc), 1dc in each st around, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (132 dc)

R18: ch3 (1dc), 1dc in next 9st, dc2tog, *1dc in next 9st, dc2tog*, repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (132 - 12 = 120 dc)

R19: ch3 (1dc), 1dc in each st around, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (120 dc)

R20 - R26 = repeat R19: ch3 (1dc), 1dc in each st around, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (120 dc)

*You can add or remove rounds to have a top longer/shorter. Once you’re satisfied with the length, continue with 3 more rounds to finish the top

R27: ch3 (1tr), 1tr in next 2st, ch5, *1tr in next 3st, ch5*, repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (15 groups of 3tr and ch5 space between them)

R28: ch2 (1dc), 1dc in next 2st, 5dc in ch5sp, *1dc in next 3st, 5dc in next ch5sp*, repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 2nd ch from beg (15 groups of 8dc = 120 dc)

R29: ch3 (1dc), 1dc in each st around, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (120 dc)

SKIRT

R1: ch3(1dc), skip 1st, 2dc in next st, ch1, 2dc in next st, skip 1st, *1dc in next st, skip 1st, 2dc in next st, ch1, 2dc in next st, skip 1st* repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (24 groups)

R2: ch1, 1fpdc in 1st st, skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st, *1fpdc in next st, skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st* repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (24 groups)

R3: INCREASE ROUND, INCREASE IN EVERY 3RD FRONT POST DOUBLE CROCHET

R3: ch1, *1fpdc in fpdc, skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st, 1fpdc in fpdc, skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc in ch1sp, skip 2st

increase: 1fpdc in fpdc, ch1, 1fpdc in same fpdc

skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st* repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (8 times increase)

R4: ch1, *1fpdc in fpdc, skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st, 1fpdc in fpdc, skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc in ch1sp, skip 2st

increase: 1fpdc in fpdc, (dc, ch1, dc) in ch1sp, 1fpdc in next fpdc

skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st* repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 3rd ch from beg 

R5: ch1, *1fpdc in fpdc, skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st, 1fpdc in fpdc, skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc in ch1sp, skip 2st

increase: 1fpdc in fpdc, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, 1fpdc in next fpdc

skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st* repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (24 + 8 = 32 groups)

R5: INCREASE ROUND, INCREASE IN EVERY 4TH FRONT POST DOUBLE CROCHET AROUND

R5: ch1, *1fpdc in fpdc, skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st, 1fpdc in fpdc, skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st, 1fpdc in fpdc, skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st,

increase: 1fpdc in fpdc, ch1, 1fpdc in same fpdc

skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st* repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (8 times increase)

R6: ch1, *1fpdc in fpdc, skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st, 1fpdc in fpdc, skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st, 1fpdc in fpdc, skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st,

increase: 1fpdc in fpdc, (dc, ch1, dc) in ch1sp, 1fpdc in next fpdc

skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st* repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 3rd ch from beg 

R7: ch1, *1fpdc in fpdc, skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st, 1fpdc in fpdc, skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st, 1fpdc in fpdc, skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st,

increase: 1fpdc in fpdc, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, 1fpdc in next fpdc

skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st* repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (32 + 8 = 40 groups)

R8: ch1, *1fpdc in fpdc, skip 2st, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1sp, skip 2st* repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (40 groups)

R9 - R26: Repeat R8 

*You can add or remove rounds to have a longer/shorter dress. Once you’re satisfied with the length, let's make a bottom border

BOTTOM BORDER
R27: ch1, *1fptr in fpdc, skip 2st, (1tr, ch3, 1tr) in ch1sp, skip 2st* repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (40 groups)

R28: ROUND WITH PICOTS (PICOT = chain 4 chains, 1dc in 1st created chain)
R28: ch1, *1fptr in fptr, 1tr in 2nd ch, picot, 1tr in same 2nd ch* repeat from * to * till end of round, sl st in 3rd ch from beg (40 groups)

Weave in all of your ends.

Belt (optional)

Foundation chain as long as you need for your belt

R1: 1dc in 3rd ch from crochet hook, 1dc in each chain till last chain, 5dc in last chain, turn

R2: work on opposite side of your foundation chain
1dc in each ch till last chain, 5 dc in last chain

Slip stitch in 3rd ch from beg or Invisible join

*You can add or remove rounds to have a longer/shorter belt.

Once you’re satisfied with the length, fasten off and weave in ends.

You may would love to match your Cute Summer Dress with some Sun Beach HAT and a beach BAG.
Try these my popular patterns and tutorials: 

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