Soft Sleeping Sheep Hand Knitted Lovey
Hello My Crochet Friends!
I love loop yarns, they are so soft and fun to work with! There are many different style and brands and so many colors!
In my last video tutorials I already showed you How to make Herringbone stitch Blanket:
How to make mosaic pattern
and how to create a beautiful hand knitted diamond pattern Japanese Knot Bag:
For this video tutorial I chose oops yarn ALIZE PUFFY FINE.
ALIZE PUFFY FINE
It is a soft, chenille yarn with slightly smaller loops than PUFFY.
The resulting product is softer and smoother.
The creation is a little more laborious and not so fast, but the result is worth the effort.
If you're just starting out, you can try a blanket, shawl, scarf again. You can also try hats or berets. Handbags and bags are also beautiful made with this yarn.
For babies, you can make soft fluffy sleeping bags.
You can make one scarf from one ball. Or make a 100x100 cm blanket from 3 balls.
In this video tutorial, I will show how to make a loop stitch, which you can use for blankets, pillows, shawls or any soft chenille project.
HOW TO KNIT LOOPS STITCH WITH YOUR HANDS
This pattern is made for beginners - NO crocheting skill level is required to make it. If you don't understand any of my instructions, don't worry I am here for you.
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HAND KNITTED LOOPS STITCH
ALIZE PUFFY FINE
This yarn is available in many classic colors, more then 20 colors awaiting for you. And also colored rainbow versions, about 10 beautiful versions.
Weight: 100g
Length in one ball: 14 m
Scissors
Sewing/Embroidery and yarn needle/tapestry needle
In the video tutorial, we will show you the entire process from the beginning, from the basic chain to the loops stitch and up to sewing.
We will create a beautiful lovey square base from ONE ball of ALIZE PUFFY FINE
HAND KNITTED LOOPS STITCH BASE from ONE BALL - INSTRUCTIONS
The size: 28 cm wide / 28 cm high
The size: 11 cm wide / 11 cm high
Make ONE SQUARE.
There are 22 foundation chains.
Each row has 22 stitches
There are 38 rows in total.
Work from bottom up in rows.
Right side is always facing you, don't turn your work.
See below the instructions STEP 1 till STEP 6.
STEP 1) COUNT FOUNDATION LOOPS
For this SQUARE, start with 22 loops.
If you would like have a wider project, you can start with more loops and then have more loops in each row.
We knit with our hands, no hook or needle is needed, it is quick and easy.
STEP 2) FOUNDATION CHAIN
Start working at beginning of yarn, make a knot, take the second loop from the knot and putt it in the first loop from back to front and pull it down.
Continue this way: working across the foundation loops, take the next loop in your working yarn and pass it through previous / just finished stitch from back to front. Continue with the next loop in the working yarn and the next loop in the foundation loop chain. Work your way all the way across.
Make 22 loops foundation chain of one color.
STEP 3) STOCKING STITCH FIRST ROW and NEXT ROWS
We work in rows. Don't turn your work.
The right side of your work is always facing you.
Start stocking in just finished stitch/ last stitch in foundation chain, take the next loop in the working yarn and pull it through the previous / just finished st, then continue by taking the next loop in your working yarn and putting it through the previous stitch/loop from back to front and pulling up.
We return to the beginning (to the "knot").
Do not forget that we have to always start to pass the first to the last stitch in the previous row.
So we always start the next row by knitting again to the last stitch from the previous row.
We now have 22 loops in a row.
Make sure you have 22 loops in each row.
STEP 4) MAKE LOOPS STITCH
We pull a loop into a loop, we do not cross the loops. ATTENTION in this 2nd row we pull the loops into the basic chain, not into the 1st row of loops.
Grab the first loop in the 1st row and turn it downwards, towards ourselves.
Pull a next loop in working yarn through the chain stitch, from back to front, we have 2 loops in the chain stitch - one from the 1st row and one from the 2nd row.
And this is how we continue to the end of the row: pull next loop in next chain from back to front, don't work in loops made in 1st row, leave them loosely.
NOTE: please take into account that every second row we crochet in the loops one row below, so we will need twice as much yarn for the required length of the square.
Make sure that your loops do not twist and that they always go in one direction.
And this is how we continue to the end of the row: skip one, cross the next loop over the skipped one.
Pull a loop into the next one and then another loop into the skipped one.
Make sure that your loops are not twisted and that they always go in one direction.
STEP 5) MAKE 2 ROWS REPEAT
The next row, row 3, is a row where we knit the classic straight loop into the loop from the previous row from back to front.
As before, be careful not to twist or twist your loops and to have the same number of loops in a row.
The next row, row 4, is the row where we pull the loop into the loops one row below. This means that we pull the loops from the previous row, row 3, downward towards yourself, revealing the loops from row 2, and pull one loop into each loop. Back to front as always before.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you are satisfied with the length of the project.
STEP 6) LAST ROW ENDING = BIND OFF
Binding off with loop yarn can be done in either direction - right to left or left to right. However, you always have to start to bind off in the same direction as your last row (the end without the tail of loops).
For this loop pattern, I recommend ending up with an odd row, for me it's row 37.
Bind off the row by taking the 2nd loop and passing it through the first loop and pull. Then take the 3rd loop and pass it through the 2nd loop. Continue across the row slipping the next loop into the previous loop.
After inserting the last loop, carefully cut off tail of loops, make a knot. Thread the tail on a tapestry needle and weave the tail through the stitches on the wrong side.
The bind/binding off is completed.
The soft and cosy loop yarn base is finished.
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and make a loops stitch for your blanket or pillow.
CROCHET SLEEPING SHEEP HEAD
VIDEO TUTORIAL:
MATERIALS AND DIRECTIONS:
This is very easy and quick crochet project, you just need to know how to crochet single crochet stitch and how to increase and how to decrease.
So let me now get started and tell you what you will need in order to crochet this SLEEPING SHEEP HEAD.
The pattern was made with yarns:
ALIZE BABY BEST
https://www.vlnika.cz/z16232-prize-baby-best
100 gr / 240 m / 90% acryl + 10 % bamboo, anti-piling
color A = grey, light brown or light beige or any color you like for head
color B = dark grey, black, dark brown, dark blue or any color you like for eyes
color C = pink for nose
ALIZE BABY BEST
Beautiful and soft yarns. The yarns are great for crocheted cowls, hats, sweaters, vests for kids, but they are also great for crocheted toys and amigurumi.
For this pattern you will need 3.0 mm crochet hook.
Scissors
Sewing/Embroidery and yarn needle/tapestry needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends
Markers
Stuffing
CROCHET SLEEPING SHEEP HEAD
Size: one size
Difficulty Level: Level 1 – Easy, for beginners
US crochet terms:
SlSt – slip stitch
CH/s – chain/s
SC - single crochet
sc2tog - 2 single crochet decrease, 2sc together
SK - skip
T - turn
ST/s - stitch(es)
REP – repeat
Special stitches used:
Single Crochet Decrease (sc2tog)
A crochet decrease makes the current row or round that you are working on shorter than the one previous to it.
1. Insert hook into the first stitch.
2. Yarn over and draw through the loop.
3. Do not complete the stitch as normal.
4. Instead, insert the hook into the next stitch.
5. Yarn over and draw through the loop.
6. There should now be three loops on your hook
7. Yarn over and draw through all three loops on the hook
8. You should now have two single crochet stitches side-by-side, joined together into one stitch at the top.
This pattern requires familiarity with stitches used, attaching yarn and sewing parts together with a sewing needle.
CROCHET SLEEPING SHEEP HEAD
PATTERN NOTES
1) A ch1 at beg of the row DOESN'T count as a stitch
2) Magic ring = the starting point for crocheting in a spiral. Use which ever method you prefer.
3) Continuous spiral rounds - which means that you will not be joining the last stitch of the round with the first one. Instead you will need to keep track of where each round started and how many stitches you have made because after each round you will continue right on to the stitches of the next round (with no join). It is useful to use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to mark the start or end of each round.
4) ( ) – The number of stitches that should be in a completed round/row are placed in brackets at the end of that round’s/row’s instructions.
5) The CROCHET SLEEPING SHEEP HEAD is crocheted in these parts using single crochet stitches:
HEAD
EARS
6) This CROCHET SLEEPING SHEEP HEAD measures
inch / cm long
inch / cm wide
The finished size will depend on what yarn you use, as well as your tension and hook (as with any amigurumi).
*Measurements are taken from the garment lying flat, before the yarn has stretched out/dropped.
8) There is some sewing: you will sew the ears on the head, the hair cap on the head. This is easy to do, there are no tricks.
HOW TO CROCHET SLEEPING SHEEP HEAD
WRITTEN PATTERN
Note: A fabric measuring tape is useful here, since it’s more flexible than a ruler.
Crochet Hook 3 mm
The CROCHET HEAD is crocheted in as a one piece rows, from the top bottom, using single crochet stitches
Color A
This part is worked in spiral rounds, without joining rounds. Do not join rounds.
Make a magic ring
R1: 1sc, 6sc in magic ring (6 sc)
R2: *2sc in each st* repeat from * to * till end of row (12 sc)
R3: *2sc in next st, 1sc in next st * repeat from * to * till end of row (18 sc)
R4: *2sc in next st, 1sc in next 2 st * repeat from * to * till end of row (24 sc)
R5: *1sc in each st around* repeat from * to * till end of row (24 sc)
R6: *2sc in next st, 1sc in next 3 st * repeat from * to * till end of row (30 sc)
R7 - R10: *1sc in each st around* repeat from * to * till end of row (30 sc)
R11: *sc2tog, 1sc in next 3 st * repeat from * to * till end of row (24 sc)
Stuff the HEAD well.
R12: *sc2tog, 1sc in next 2 st * repeat from * to * till end of row (18 sc)
R13 - R15: *1sc in each st around* repeat from * to * till end of row (18 sc)
R16: *sc2tog, 1sc in next st * repeat from * to * till end of row (12 sc)
Stuff more if needed before finishing round R16
R24: *sc2tog * repeat from * to * till end of row (6 sc)
Join all stitches together
Cut yarn color A and fasten off and wave all ends in.
STUFFING
The exact moment for starting filling and stuffing the toy depends on every single person. I prefer filling the toy with the work almost finished. It’s a bit more difficult to fill, but more comfortable to crochet. You should make proofs until finding the more suitable moment of filling for you.
Stuff head and body firmly and full. Shape as you stuff, make sure to shape the nose too.
Use a stuffing stick or the back end of a pencil to push the stuffing into the right spots.
EAR
Crochet Hook 3 mm
Color A
This part is worked in spiral rounds, without joining rounds. Do not join rounds.
Ch1 at the beginning of round don't count as a stitch.
Make a magic ring
R1: 1sc, 4sc in magic ring (4 sc)
R2: *2sc in next st, 1sc in next st * repeat from * to * till end of row (6 sc)
R3-R5: *1sc in each st around* repeat from * to * till end of row (6 sc)
I don't stuff the EAR.
Join all stitches together.
Cut the yarn and leave a longer tail to sew the Ear on the Head.
Repeat the pattern for the second EAR.
HAIR CAP ON THE HEAD
Hand knit the hair cap with loop yarn using loop pattern following the steps above.
ALIZE PUFFY FINE
https://www.vlnika.cz/z13754-prize-puffy-fine
R1: count 9 loops - more or less depending on the circumference of the head.
R2: pull 1 loop in working yarn in each loop (9 loops)
R2: pull 1 loop in each loop from row R1 (9 loops)
R3: *1 loop into 1 loop, join 2 loops* repeat from * to * until the end of the row (6 loops)
R4: 1 loop into 1 loop from R2, *skip 1 loop, knit 1 loop into the next loop*, 1 loop into the last loop (6 loops)
Cut 3-4 loops, stitch the tail end with the last loops in the R4 row and sew the lopps together, creating a furry looped "cap", which we put on the sheep's head and sew.
Cut the yarn, weave in the ends.
FINISHING INSTRUCTIONS:
Use the yarn tail color A and a darning needle and sew the HAIR CAP on the top of the HEAD.
Cut the yarn, weave in the ends.
Use the yarn tail color A and a darning needle and sew the EARS on the HEAD - just below the hair cap, in the center about 5 rows from the magic circle symmetrically.
NOSE and MOUTH
Color C
Embroider a nose and a mouth - the nose forms 2 oblique lines and 1 straight line. Embroider an oblique line across rows 5 and 2 towards the magic circle and then from row 2 to row 5, between the lines approx. 4-5 stitches, then one vertical line from row 2 through the magic circle circle to row 2. about one row lower than the row between the eyes. I sew 2 stitches horizontally and one below vertically, and one more stitched line as a mouth.
Cut the yarn, weave in the ends.
EYES
Color B
We sew the eye as one shorter diagonal line from right to left downwards around one stitch and then a second shorter line upwards around one stitch again. Skip 2 stitches and sew the second eye.
Cut the yarn, weave in the ends.
You are all done with your amazing SLEEPING SHEEP LOVEY.
This cute SLEEPING SHEEP will a perfect handmade GIFT or TOY for all kids!
I hope you’ve enjoyed making this free CROCHET SLEEPING SHEEP LOVEY crochet pattern.
What’s Next?
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https://www.nebeska.eu/en/articles/crochet-patterns-and-tutorials/home-decoration-and-holidays/
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