CROCHET MESH RAGLAN SWEATER AURA
MATERIALS

What will you need to crochet this Sweater?

The Sweater is crocheted using yarn: AURA

Yarn Details:

Available at: https://www.vlnika.cz/z25399-prize-aura

100 g / 170 m,
51% cotton a 49% linen 

You need 3 balls to make this beautiful sweater. 

You'll also need:

Hook: 4.5 mm

Sewing needle

Markers for marking 4 corners

Scissors

With these materials on hand, you'll be all set to start crocheting your stylish sweater!

Difficulty Level: Level 1 – Easy, for beginners

US crochet terms:
SlSt – slip stitch
CH/s – chain/s
SC - single crochet
HDC - double crochet
SK - skip
T - turn
ST/s - stitch(es)
REP – repeat

CROCHET MESH RAGLAN SWEATER AURA
PATTERN NOTES

1) The Crochet Sweater is available in S/M women size. The sweater features a flexible pattern and adjusts nicely to the wearer's figure.

2)The Sweater is crocheted in a simple style from top to bottom, allowing you to try on the fit as you crochet and adjust the size accordingly.

3)The instructions use V-stitches to create a simple mesh pattern. If you're new to crocheting sweater, you'll find this pattern easy to follow.

4)While the tutorial demonstrates a classic style, you can easily achieve a body fit by crocheting a size down or oversizes style by crocheting a size up.

5) Additionally, you can adjust the length of the sweater by crocheting more rows in the "body" section after joining the front and back pieces. You can also adjust the length of the sleeves, crocheting more or less rows, until the desired length.

6) A Ch 2 at beg of the row counts as a stitch, start every row with ch2 on the yoke and the body. 

7)This sweater is crocheted in rounds. Rounds are joined with slip stitches after completing each row.

8) Measurement: 

Neck circumference: 80 cm / 31 inch

Length of sweater: 53 cm / 20.7 inch

Length of body of sweater: 33 cm / 13 inch

Width of sweater: 41 cm / 16 inch

Yoke lenght: 20 cm / 8 inch

Width of sleeve / armpit: 17 cm / 6.6 inch

Length of sleeve from top: 53 cm / 20.7 inch

Length of sleeve from armpit: 33 cm / 13 inch

Width of sleeve - bottom border: 13 cm / 5 inch

*Measurements are taken from the garment lying flat, before the yarn has stretched out/dropped.

How to crochet this sweater:
This sweater is worked seamlessly from the top down, starting with circular yoke.
I really love this type of construction, the size is super easy to adjust!

One of the great things about top-down crochet is that you can try them on as you go and adjust the size to your liking. For instance, if you find the underarm area too tight after completing the yoke, simply add a few more closed yoke rows before dividing into the sleeves and body of the top.

Similarly, if you want to change the length of the sweater or sleeves, you can easily do so by subtracting or adding rows until you're satisfied. This type of raglan construction is perfect for beginners looking to try simple patterns.

CROCHET MESH RAGLAN SWEATER AURA - CONSTRUCTION

The top consists of the following parts:

YOKE – Begin with the foundation chain to create a neckline around the neck. Crochet in rows, gradually widening the neckline around.

Keep crocheting on the right side without turning the work. The yoke expands gradually around. 

BODY OF THE SWEATER – We will begin by dividing the yoke to create the armholes, then proceed to crochet down the rows without further expansion. 

To adjust the length of the top's body or the sleeves, simply repeat the last rows until you reach your desired length.

BOTTOM BORDER – The border is crocheted around in the lower part of the sweater. You can adjust its length as needed or expand it if necessary

CROCHET MESH RAGLAN SWEATER AURA

WRITTEN PATTERN

YOKE

Crochet hook 4.5 mm
ch2 at beg of row = halfdouble crochet
work in rounds, don’t turn your work
close the round with a slip stitch

Make a foundation chain.
Foundation Chain: 111 chains
Close the chain with a slip st.

The number of chains is a multiple of 3.

BORDER: ch1, 1sc in each ch till end of row, my recommendation is to work on the third loop / bump. Turn. (111 sc)

V-stitch = hdc + ch3 + hdc

R1: ch2 (hdc)+ch3+hdc in 1st st, *skip 2 st, V-stitch in next st* repeat from * to * till end of row, close the round with sl st in 2nd ch from beg (37 V-stitches). 

R2: 1sl st in next st, ch2 (hdc)+ch3+hdc in chsp, *V-stitch in next chsp* repeat from * to * till end of row, close the round with sl st in 2nd ch from beg (37 V-stitches) 

R3 = R2

R4 = increase in each 4th V-st, evenly 9 times around
increase = (hdc+ch3+hdc+ch3+hdc) in V-st from previous row
1sl st in next st, ch2 (hdc)+ch3+hdc in chsp, *(hdc+ch3+hdc+ch3+hdc) in next chsp, V-stitch in next 3 chsp* repeat from * to * till end of row, close the round with sl st in 2nd ch from beg (46 V-stitches) 

R5 – R7 = V-stitch in V-st / no increase

R8 = increase in each 4th V-st, evenly 12 times around
increase = (hdc+ch3+hdc+ch3+hdc) in V-st from previous row
1sl st in next st, ch2 (hdc)+ch3+hdc in chsp, *(hdc+ch3+hdc+ch3+hdc) in next chsp, V-stitch in next 3 chsp* repeat from * to * till end of row, close the round with sl st in 2nd ch from beg (58 V-stitches) 

R9 - R11 = V-stitch in V-st / no increase

R12 = increase in each 4th V-st, evenly 14 times around
increase = (hdc+ch3+hdc+ch3+hdc) in V-st from previous row
1sl st in next st, ch2 (hdc)+ch3+hdc in chsp, *(hdc+ch3+hdc+ch3+hdc) in next chsp, V-stitch in next 3 chsp* repeat from * to * till end of row, close the round with sl st in 2nd ch from beg (72 V-stitches) 

R13-R15 = V-stitch in V-st / no increase

Repeat row R13 till you are satisfied with the length of the yoke.

I made 15 rounds.

Then divide the yoke into 4 parts into 4 quarters:

Front and back panel

Sleeves

72 / 4 = 18

Each part measures 18 v-stitches.

THE BODY of THE SWEATER

R1: work in first 18 v-stitches /back panel/ then ch3 for an armhole, skip 18 v-stitches /sleeve/ work 18 v-stitches /front panel/, armhole ch3, skip 18 v-stitches /sleeve/ close the round with sl st in 2nd ch from beg (36 V-stitches) 

R2: work v-stitch in each v-stitch till you reach the armhole ch3 space, in 2nd ch work

(hdc+ch3+hdc), then work v-stitch in v-stitch till you reach the armhole ch3 space, in 2nd ch work (hdc+ch3+hdc), close the round with sl st in 2nd ch from beg (38 V-stitches) 

R3: v-stitch in v-stitch

REPEAT R3 till you are satisfied with the length of the body of the sweater (38 V-stitches)
I made 23 rounds.

If you want to make your sweater wide, use INCREASE STITCH (hdc+ch3+hdc+ch3+hdc) in V-stitch from previous round

If you want to make your sweater narrower, use DECREASE STITCH: v-stitch in v-stitch, hdc in next v-stitch, v-stitch in next v-stitch. And in next round work just v-stitch in v-stitch and skip hdc.

BOTTOM BORDER

1sl st in next st, ch1, 1sc in 1st v-stitch, ch2, *1sc in next v-stitch, ch2* repeat from * to * till end of round, close the round with sl st in 1st sc at beg (38 sc and chsp)

ch1, 1sc in 1st sc, 1sc in next 2 ch, *1sc in next sc, 1sc in next 2 ch* repeat from * to * till end of round, close the round with an invisible join or a sl st in 1st sc at beg (114 sc)

Cut the yarn and fasten off.

SLEEVES

Work in closed rounds.
Work on the right side, don’t turn your work.

R1: Re-join a new yarn in armhole. I would recommned you to start working in 2nd ch in chain space armhole, work on the opposite side of the chain (in the same chain, where we already crocheted the v-stitch in the first round of the body of the sweater.

Then make one more v-stitch in chain space between the the body of the sweater and the sleeve.

The v-stitch in v-stitch around (18 v-stitches) till end of round, there make one more v-stitch between the the body of the sweater and the sleeve.

Close the round with sl st in 2nd ch from beg (21 v-stitches).

If you want to make the sleeve narrower, use DECREASE STITCH: v-stitch in v-stitch, hdc in next v-stitch, v-stitch in next v-stitch. And in next round work just v-stitch in v-stitch and skip hdc.

R2: 1sl st in next st, ch2 (hdc)+ch3+hdc in chsp, 1hdc in next chsp, then work v-stitch in v-stitch till end of round, in last v-stitch  work 1hdc, close the round with sl st in 2nd ch from beg(19 v-stitches)

R3: work v-stitch in v-stitch

R4: DECREASE STITCH
1sl st in next st, ch2 (hdc)+ch3+hdc in chsp, 1hdc in next chsp, then work v-stitch in v-stitch till end of round, close the round with sl st in 2nd ch from beg (18 v-stitches)

R5: work v-stitch in v-stitch

R6: DECREASE STITCH
1sl st in next st, ch2 (hdc)+ch3+hdc in chsp, 1hdc in next chsp, then work v-stitch in v-stitch till end of round, close the round with sl st in 2nd ch from beg (17 v-stitches)

R7: work v-stitch in v-stitch

R8: DECREASE STITCH
1sl st in next st, ch2 (hdc)+ch3+hdc in chsp, 1hdc in next chsp, then work v-stitch in v-stitch till end of round, close the round with sl st in 2nd ch from beg (16 v-stitches)

R9: work v-stitch in v-stitch

R10: DECREASE STITCH
1sl st in next st, ch2 (hdc)+ch3+hdc in chsp, 1hdc in next chsp, then work v-stitch in v-stitch till end of round, close the round with sl st in 2nd ch from beg (15 v-stitches)

R9 - R23: work v-stitch in v-stitch (15 v-stitches)

I slightly narrowed the sleeve in the armpit area by one v-stitch in every 2nd row.

Use the DECREASE STITCH

REPEAT rounds R9 till you are satisfied with the length of the sleeve (15 V-stitches)

I made 23 rows

BOTTOM BORDER

1sl st in next st, ch1, 1sc in 1st v-stitch, ch2, *1sc in next v-stitch, ch2* repeat from * to * till end of round, close the round with sl st in 1st sc at beg (15sc and chsp)

ch1, 1sc in 1st sc, 1sc in next 2ch, *1sc in next sc, 1sc in next 2 ch* repeat from * to * till end of round, close the round with an invisible join or a sl st in 1st sc at (45 sc)

Cut the yarn and fasten off.

Work the sleeves in the same way on the opposite side. And now all that remains is to sew all the loose ends to the wrong side and turn the sweater to the right front side and align it.

The crochet mesh sweater AURA is now complete! I hope you'll enjoy wearing it not only on summer days but throughout the year as well! I truly believe it will complement you wonderfully.